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Newport Brass Faucets
Thermostatic Systems
The thermostatic valve
is an anti-scald valve that was designed to run multiple functions at
one time or any combination therein. It has a paraffin wax sensor that
reacts instantly to changes in temperature caused by either pressure or
inlet temperature changes. If the water pressure
drops or the hot water supply cools, the valve assures that the water
temperature remains the same. This valve requires a separate Stop
Valve/Volume Control for each function in the bathroom, also the
thermostatic valve is a mixing valve only, it cannot control on or off
to any function.
It is
very important when installing this valve that the installation
instructions are followed exactly. If one thing is not done or done
incorrectly by the plumber then it can affect the entire operation of
the valve. Most of the time the problems that occur when this valve is
installed, are with the installation of the valve itself. The first and
most important thing is that the plumber must plug one of the two
outlets either on top or bottom of the valve. It does not matter which
port is plugged, because if both are used the valve cannot correctly set
the temperature of the water and you will experience either all hot
water or all cold water that the user would not be able to adjust. This
plug is included with the thermostatic valve. Another common problem is
if the valve is installed upside down or if the hot and cold inlets were
reversed, unlike our balanced pressure valves, the thermostatic valve
does not have a reversible cartridge. In this case the plumber would
have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly. Our
thermostatic valve comes set from the factory to have the water at 100
degrees, if the installing plumber touches or adjusts the stem it will
directly affect the temperature settings of the valve and would have to
be recalibrated by plumber by using a thermometer with the water running
to have it reset to the correct temperature.
When
installing a thermostatic system it is important that the sum total of
water consumption of the combined shower outlets does not exceed the
rated GPM of the thermostatic valve. With the ¾” piping to the
thermostatic valve you are will get approximately 14-16gpm and with ½”
piping you will get approximately 10-12gpm. If you have 6 body sprays
at 2.5gpm each, 1 showerhead at 2.5gpm, and 1 hand shower at 2.5gpm, you
cannot run all of these functions at the same time from one thermostatic
valve. In the above example you would be using a total of 20gpm which
one thermostatic valve cannot accommodate. You will need to run two
separate thermostatic valves if this is the case or eliminate some
functions out of the setup or use only some of the units at one time
without any other functions running.
Stop Valves/Volume
Controls
Stop
valves/volume controls must be used with a thermostatic system. The
main thermostatic valve itself does not shut off so it is constantly
on. You will need one stop valve for each function in the bathroom; the
only exception would be with the body sprays. You can put up to 4 body
sprays on one ¾” stop valve and 2-3 body sprays on a ½” stop valve. All
of our stop valves have a 4” long stem and is required to be cut for the
trim to fit correctly. Stop valves/volume controls must be installed
the correct way so you do not experience any problems. If the stop
valve is installed incorrectly the problem may not arise immediately; it
may show up in a week or in six months. When installing the stop
valve/volume controls the plumber should take note of the arrow on the
side of the valve which shows which way the water should be
flowing. If the valve is installed upside
down the plumber must go into the wall and re-plumb that valve. If the
valve is installed you can check if it was installed correctly without
having to go into the wall, by removing the cartridge of the stop
valve. There should be a hole in the top or on the outlet side of the
stop valve/volume control. If it is on the bottom or the inlet side
then the valve was installed incorrectly and the plumber would have to
go into the wall and re-plumb the valve.
You
may not use a diverter in any circumstance with a thermostatic system.
The first reason is because it defeats the purpose of a thermostatic
valve in the first place, it limits you to choose either one function or
another when the thermostatic valve was designed to be able to use more
than one function at a time. Second and most importantly in whatever
function that the diverter is hooked up, water will come out of all
functions linked to the diverter at once. It will not divert the water
from one to another.
Trim
We offer thermostatic
trim to match all of our series. However since you cannot put a lever
handle on the main thermostatic trim, our series’ that use a lever
handle either have a circular handle or a t-bar style handle. This is
because if a lever is used it cannot be left pointing up since there is
no tension to keep it in place, which would change the temperature on
the user. The thermostatic trim is located in the catalog with each
series. It will either have its own specific trim or it will show the
closest match. Also stop valves use a separate handle and escutcheon
which also can be found next to the thermostatic trim in the catalog for
each series.
Since
there was a different thermostatic valve that we used, there is old
style trim that still is available if necessary for replacement
purposes. The valve change was in September of 2002. It is easy to
identify if it is new or old style by the look of the trim. The old
style square trim was actually rectangular shaped, and the round trim
had a big oval indention in the middle. If the current trim number is
3-924TR/10B, then the old style part number would be 3-924TR.NC/10B.
Since this was a change with the valve and the manufacturer of the
valve, the cartridges are not interchangeable.
If the plumber
installed the valve too far back into the wall we make an extension for
the thermostatic valve only, not the stop valves. The part is a 1-3/8”
extension which is a finished piece; they cannot be stacked upon each
other. If more than 1-3/8” is needed by the plumber they would have to
go into the wall and re-plumb the valve closer to the wall.
Common Issues and
Solutions
·
Water is
coming out of all the functions and I cannot turn the water off.
You must install one
stop valve for every function in the bathroom. The plumber will have to
go back into the wall and re-plumb the setup correctly, and you cannot
use a diverter whatsoever.
·
I’m only
getting all hot or all cold water.
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First, check and see if one of the outlets was plugged. If not the
plumber will have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly.
·
Second, make sure the hot and cold inlets were piped correctly and that
valve was not installed upside down which would reverse the hot and cold
inlets. The plumber would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the
valve correctly.
·
Reset
check stops and clean filter on cartridge per instructions.
·
I’m
getting varying temperatures and cannot control from hot to cold.
Make sure the hot and
cold inlets were piped correctly and that valve was not installed upside
down which would reverse the hot and cold inlets. The plumber would
have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly.
·
The
water isn’t getting as hot as 120°.
The valve has to be
recalibrated by the plumber; most likely the stem was turned before or
during installation.
Reset check stops and
clean filter on cartridge per instructions.
·
I have 4
functions but only one of the functions barely dribbles out water.
Make sure that the sum
total of water consumption of the combined shower outlets does not
exceed the rated GPM of the thermostatic valve.
Make sure that the
body sprays are on a loop system.
·
No water
is coming out from the function I have my stop valve hooked up to.
Check to see if the
stop valve was installed correctly. There is an arrow on the side of
the valve body that should follow the direction of the water. If you
cannot see the side of the stop valve you can remove the cartridge from
the stop valve body, there should be a hole that should be on the outlet
side of the valve body. If the hole is on the inlet side of the valve
body the stop valve will need to be re-plumbed in the wall.
Cartridges & Misc.
·
Cartridge for new style thermostatic valve (After 9/02) = 1-102
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Cartridge for old style thermostatic valve (Before 9/02) = 1-088
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Check
Stops (same for hot and cold) = 1-103
·
1-3/8”
extension for the 1-540 valve = 2-260/(finish)
·
1-3/8”
Extension for old style 1-540 (Before 9/02) = 2-260.NC/(Finish)
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Cartridge for 1-606C = 1-510
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Torque-able cartridge for 1-606C = 1-543
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Cartridge for 1-606H = 1-511
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Torque-able cartridge for 1-606H = 1-544
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Cartridge for 1-607C = 1-517
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Cartridge for 1-607H = 1-518
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